Reviews

I bought this item after my Garmin car charger broke. This item has worked perfectly with my GPS, and it seems to be sturdy and durable.

This cable replaced the original cable that came with the GPS. It was compatible and arrived before the estimated date!! Very pleased!!

Items was OEM just as described and is better quality than the original DC charging cable in many ways. Highly recommended.

Lost my original and got this one through Amazon.com. Not much to say other than it works great and appears to be the factory unit for my Garmin.

The charger was delivered on time, but the one I was sent was defective. I contacted the sending company and in five days' time I was sent a replacement. The replacement is working just fine.

Reviews

I received the Garmin 12 V adapter for my 720 in the alloted time. Went on a road trip in my Mini and on my return the battery ran low. Have not determined the problem; perhaps a defective fuse.

Garmin should have issued a kit to replace the orgin. cheap plastic glued to metal end that goes in cig lighter to power the Garmin nuvi660. THis cord is fantastic...all metal end!

The quality on the adapter is weak, and therefore must be handled with care, otherwise it has worked well. I dont know why Gramin makes such cheap adapters (I guess to make $). The plastic is easy to beak when removing it from the plug.

I bought this replacement car charger for my Garmin Nuvi 660 after my other one broke. This is a great replacement and works great.

So like most people I wanted to save a few bucks and not purchase this product from the www.Garmin.com. Well I got what I paid for. This product died 3 weeks after using it. Even though I bought new fuses (6 different times) for this product it still will not work. I do not recommend purchasing this product. Now I have to purchase a new one from Garmin.....

Reviews

I needed a USB cable to update my Garmin unit, so I decided to purchase this item after reading the positive Amazon reviews. The cable was delivered quickly and it works perfectly fine.

The original cable received with Garmin GPS product has a filter between the two ends. The cable delivered doesn't so the cable received is a generic cable rather than the cable supplied with the Garmin product. It works and so far, the lack of the filter has not damaged the Garmin device but I am still nervous when I use it.

With something like this, if it works, it works. This works, and the price was next to nothing. Good deal.

Advertised for a Garmin, However, it did not fit mine. Wasn't worth the trouble to return due to shipping and restocking fee. Seller should be more specific.

Bought this for my new Nuvi 255w in order to connect to the computer. No opportunity for an extended review here, does exactly what it is supposed to do and for a good price. Thanks!

Reviews

The Garmin Nuvi 255w is just what I needed. I moved to a new area and had many frustrating wrong turns until I got the Nuvi. The size is nice (not too small, not too big) and is very easy to use. I recommend it for anyone! The price was right too- just $100.

Received this Garmin to replace my 2008 Garmin Nuvi 350. I've come to the conclusion that this unit is sub par on multiple levels. First, and most noticeable is the difference in satellite reception. My unit took approximately 15 minutes to obtain a weak signal on a clear day. This was repeated over the course of a week. Driving through a small tunnel would cause the signal to be completely lost, while the Nuvi 350 would at least attempt to continue your route. Compared to the Nuvi 350, I find the user interface and software to be very slow. Touch screen response takes a bit for it to register on the unit. This creates a dangerous scenario while driving (I know..) and continuously had me correcting errors. Perhaps I received a defective unit, but this one is already on its way back to Amazon.

I love this Garmin. I bought one for my boyfriend and had to buy one for myself. Refurbished it may be, but I haven't had one issue with it and I think it's a great product.

We took it on vacation with us and we NEVER got lost. Easy to figure out how to use and it can find anything! Love it!!

I like everything about this Garmin except that the voice sounds bossy and hurried. Our previous Garmin's voice was much nicer. Maybe she is hurried because she is giving street names and so has to talk faster?

Reviews

It was a bit of a decision when it came to this unit and the newer model with the rubberized grippy bottom that collapses. After reading multiple reviews of the rubber coating leaving a film on the dash, I went for this one. The bean bag is super sturdy and so far as not slid once on me under both pretty heavy acceleration and braking. The build quality seems pretty solid and even though it is bigger, I have not had a problem with storage in my center console. I would highly recommend this product for your Garmin GPS unit. (I use this with my 660)

It's like a heavy bean bag but it really works to hold the Garmin steady on the dashboard. It is easy to pick it up and put on the floor or under the seat when you want to take the Garmin. I'm very pleased with it and the price was great.

This is the perfect mount. It keeps the GPS from sliding around when taking turns...it stays where you put it!

I don't know why anyone would use a suction mount after using this product! If your gps fits with this mount, buy it -- buy it along with purchasing your new gps now and never use the suction mount that comes with your unit. This thing never slides on the dashboard, it's portable, and it's easy to adjust for the best viewing angle. It works.

Mounting my Garmin Nuvi directly on the windshield was not an option for my Honda Element as the windshield has a deep slant that would make the screen too far for comfortable viewing. The friction mount allows me to place my Nuvi above and slightly right of the dashboard gauges where it is easily viewed and obscures very little sight through the windshield. I have never had it slide out of position. I would not be able to get much use out of my GPS without this mount.

Reviews

Bought this Garmin a month ago mainly on the good reviews it had received and the reasonable price. Took it on a trip to the Bay area, CA. Overall, it performed well. The initial satellite acquisition in a new area takes longer than normal but that's to be expected. Subsequent acquisitions were fast. As far as the routes, except for one hiccup where it kept trying to exit on a non-existent exit on the highway, it performed OK. I noticed though occasionally it went "crazy" going around loops and so forth. Best to re-start the route calculations in those situations. The maps are fairly up to date. The traffic worked OK in one situation but for the most part, it's not the feature I would base my purchase on. For people who rely on reviews, having read dozens of them on various GPS devices, you will not find one with a perfect score. There's no such thing as a perfect GPS at any price with the current state of technology. Even with the "best" one purchased, one should not blindly follow the instructions. Commonsense should be exercised as to where the GPS is sending you. For the money, Garmin 265WT is an adequate unit.

Best Gps,nice widescreen so that u can view the street details,never looses signal,calls street by name,accurate,good features to find shopping ,gas,food etc nearby.dont forget to install the free update u get with this gps it expires after a month or so.

Overall I think this is great for the tech challenged, however I really would have liked a REAL manual to be included. I had to ask my friend to find it on-line. Since there isn't a manual provided I'm not really sure all that the device can do...but for getting places it's pretty straight forward. For the price I'm satisfied with what I got.

What a great upgrade from my old Garmin 330, this thing is awesome, handsfree phone use with the bluetooth, and the directions to new places is priceless

Not pleased with this GPS at all. I had the Garmin Nuvi 205 before and it worked quite well. Upgraded to The Garmin Nüvi 265W/265WT which speaks the street names. It is very slow responding with directions, does not know which direction you traveling many times, does not know which lane you are in sometimes so tells you to turn the wrong way. I DO NOT recommend this unit at all. I will call Garmin about but plan on returning this and going back to the Nuvi 205.

Reviews

Perhaps this is "my bad," but I assumed the bag would hold the Garmin device and the charge cord AND the mounting bracket. If you're taking the GPS on a trip, you want ALL OF THIS to fit. And if you're taking the GPS down to avoid theft, you ALSO want to take all of it with you - or at least take the mounting bracket down and hide it. As mentioned by other reviewers, the bag is a loose fit for just the GPS, a tight fit with the power cord - and you can even get half the mounting bracket in. But it ends there. So, for now, when I travel, I'll put the mounting bracket in a baggie and then put the Neoprene sleeve (GPS inside) into the baggie. Okay, I guess, but not the "elegant" solution I was looking for. In conclusion, this is a protective sleeve for JUST THE GPS and the powercord - not for what I at least consider the entire unit.

Great product...bought one for each of my sons and one for myself. Looks nice and protects the GPS.

These are great value for money. Fits a PND, Battery & cables. I like the green as it stands out from all the black cases.

I bought this for my Garmin Nuvi 255W GPS unit, and it is way too big. It is a nice bag, maybe I will find another use for it.

Oh, we're darned if we do and darned if we don't. Loose fit or tight fit? Well, the Neoprene Sleeve Carrying Case for the Garmin Nuvi 255W is, in fact, a loose fit. Now, why would that be a problem? Actually it isn't REALLY a problem in terms of function, but a tighter fitting Neoprene cover apparently would make me "feel better" psychologically, about it. Ok, maybe there is a legitimate "protection" reason, i.e. the looser fit allows for shifting of the device within the sleeve, which might make it less safe - from exactly what, I'm not sure. Maybe it's just that it's a waste of fabric. Or, maybe it's that the extra fabric bunches a bit, which makes it more difficult to cram down in your day bag. Positive Features: I think the wrist strap is a plus. I had a case that did not have the wrist strap. This means that to transport the Garmin, you have to pick up the actual Garmin - and the more times you come in contact with it, even through a Neoprene Sleeve, the more likely you are to scratch the screen or the casing. That all being said, I don't recommend habitually twirling the thing around on the wrist strap because 1) you're likely to let it go and break it and 2) you might, very well, wack some unspecting soul in the noggin. The wrist strap is detachable, in case you find it annoying or your find a 6 year old who can't resist swinging the thing around and hitting people in the noggin. Fashion colors are always a nice addition to any of these product lines. You really only need one of these things, so choose wisely. I'm not aware of too many people that try to match their Garmin pouches to their outfits. But hey, if that's your bag... have at it. The zipper is "rubberized" so that it won't scratch up the device if you zip too close. There is a zip pocket on this sleeve, for what, precisely, I'm not sure. The power cord is really a tight squeeze for this pouch, and I have to tell you, while I know the neoprene is a great fabric to protect devices like this, I just don't see the plus side of cramming anything with metal on it inside the pocket of the Sleeve. The pocket isn't a design "flaw" per se - but really, it's unnecessary, in my book. However, (and more on Garmin safety in a moment) I take my Garmin out of my car a lot, especially when I'm in the grocery store. And what do you know, coupons fit in that little pocket. I'm certain it wasn't designed for that, but in case you're trying to figure out what could or should go in there.... how about coupons... or a few dollars....or a torn off return address from an envelope that you're going to plug in to the device. Or many it's a quick tear from a flyer with an address of a store you want to go to. We've used the sleeve with positive results. No scratches or bumps or bruises. I suppose the extra space within the sleeve is nice in that it's easy to get the device in an out. And finally, it's Neoprene. Neoprene is not waterPROOF, but it is waterRESISTANT. So, when you step out of the car and get hit by a sprinkler, you don't ruin your Garmin. Likewise, you're late and running in the rain, probably don't ruin your Garmin. I do not recommend diving in the pool with it in the Neoprene, or allowing it to be used as a bath toy because Neoprene does, in fact, take on water. Not so positive things - There's nothing BAD. Just useless pockets, in my opinion, and a bagginess that's just more of an annoyance than anything else. But at least you can have an apple green annoyance, if you so choose. A NOTE ON SAFETY: Garmins, and all GPS systems, are hot targets for thieves. It literally takes them under 3 seconds to steal yours. They smash your window, grab it, and they are gone. Accordingly, these Neoprene Sleeves are a handy way to keep your Garmin safe, not only from scratches and such, but from thieves -- that is if you will remember to take your Garmin with you when you "exit your vehicle." Likewise, do not leave the mounting bracket on the dash or windshield as this is nothing more than an advertisement to thieves - "Hey, lookie here, there's probably a GPS in this car." I can't tell you the number of people I know who take their Garmins out of their cars but leave the mounting brackets up - only to have their window smashed and then things tossed about in the car because the thief was annoyed that the Garmin wasn't there. Yes, you can lock it in the glove box, but in under 10 seconds, they will smash your window and open the box with a screwdriver. So, TAKE THE GARMIN WITH YOU - and since you should do that, give one of these Neoprene cases a try.

Reviews

I was very disappointed with this product. The slightest shake of the pedometer while lying in the palm of my hand made it move forward! When I took it out for a "walk" it was not accurate with regard to my steps or the milage, which I measured against my car spedometer. Pretty far off, actually. Very hard to program, or to manipulate. After all, how can two buttons perform 6 functions!!! Go with the Omron product - much more user friendly.

Reviews

It was a bit of a decision when it came to this unit and the newer model with the rubberized grippy bottom that collapses. After reading multiple reviews of the rubber coating leaving a film on the dash, I went for this one. The bean bag is super sturdy and so far as not slid once on me under both pretty heavy acceleration and braking. The build quality seems pretty solid and even though it is bigger, I have not had a problem with storage in my center console. I would highly recommend this product for your Garmin GPS unit. (I use this with my 660)

It's like a heavy bean bag but it really works to hold the Garmin steady on the dashboard. It is easy to pick it up and put on the floor or under the seat when you want to take the Garmin. I'm very pleased with it and the price was great.

This is the perfect mount. It keeps the GPS from sliding around when taking turns...it stays where you put it!

I don't know why anyone would use a suction mount after using this product! If your gps fits with this mount, buy it -- buy it along with purchasing your new gps now and never use the suction mount that comes with your unit. This thing never slides on the dashboard, it's portable, and it's easy to adjust for the best viewing angle. It works.

Mounting my Garmin Nuvi directly on the windshield was not an option for my Honda Element as the windshield has a deep slant that would make the screen too far for comfortable viewing. The friction mount allows me to place my Nuvi above and slightly right of the dashboard gauges where it is easily viewed and obscures very little sight through the windshield. I have never had it slide out of position. I would not be able to get much use out of my GPS without this mount.

Reviews

I love the extra info I'm now getting on my training bike runs. Highly recommend the Garmin GSC 10 - Speed & cadence sensor to all road bikers.

My GSC10 arrived w/ a dead battery and either the install instructions refer to a non-existent LED that blinks when either magnet passes the sensor for a short period of time after resetting the unit or my sensor shipped w/ a dead LED. Install takes a bit of time to get the sensors and magnets lined up and in a position that won't interfere w/ pedaling and rotation of the rear wheel, exacerbated in my case by the dead battery and non-functioning or non-existent LED, but overall not the worst thing I've ever experienced. Got it all set up in ~35 minutes. Once I got a new battery in the thing and gave up on the LED showing me that it was working before firing up my head unit again, it paired up automagically with the Edge 500 and has been working great ever since. Can't comment on battery life or overall long term durability as I've only logged ~500 miles with it so far, but it has seen significant water/mud spray so far with no adverse effects. It's stayed securely mounted and hasn't got in the way so far. Changing the battery will most likely be a PITA w/o removing the sensor from the chain stay, but I wouldn't anticipate remounting and repositioning taking more than 10 minutes or so and a couple of zip ties. So far the Edge 500, GSC10 and Premium HRM have been a great training tool and an excellent use of ~$300. Thinking of buying a second GSC10 to use on the rental I'll be riding on a trip next month and then putting it on my MTB when I get back home. This product would get 5 stars from me if it weren't for the dead battery and confused instructions or broken LED.

I bought this after I had been using my Garmin Forerunner 405 for just for running. I found it was easy to install on the bike and no fuss to sync it with the rear wheel, pedal and the actual Forerunner. I use to to track all my rides now as well.

As with all my other Garmin products, this cadence sensor exceeds my expectations. The directions were a little confusing, but it was easy to install and very easy to use. Incredibly useful.

The included stick on rubber adapter pad fits perfectly on the angular frame on the recent 5-series Madone. I was expecting to have to find some way to make it work, but the adapters fits like it was made for the Madone frame - and maybe it was. Paired easily to my Trek Incite Alpine computer. Works great.

Reviews

I purchased this kit to allow me to transfer my garmin from run to bike during Triathlon training and race. It works great much easier that the runner band that comes on the watch by default. Easy to snap in and out. I will say be careful with it, I had my watch on my camelpack strap and it got caught when removing the camelpack and I broke one of the pins about an hour before my first Tri, but it did come with spare pins, so was able to correct the issue and worked great for the race.

I love my Garmin 305. Works great. I bought this kit b/c I run and mountain bike a lot and this kit makes transitions easy between wrist and bike. Worked so good that I decided to strap it on to my wrist while I was at the motocross track. Not a good idea. One lap and it had popped out of the quick release wrist strap. Same thing with bike mount kit. So, the lesson is it works great if you aren't going to be in a situation where it is really going to get thrown around a lot. I would not trust this kit for my mountain bike in extreme situations where it is going to get rough (i.e. think Porcupine Rim Trail out at Moab). Other than that it works great!

Good product, just have to be careful if you are riding on a somewhat of a bumpy road, the quick release actually came loose and fell off my bike. I had to go back to get it, good thing I heard it fall.

I was looking for a quick release kit for my Forerunner 310xt... Amazon recommended this one when I looked up the watch. Not sure why as it does not fit. So a wasted week and costs to have had it shipped to me. If you have the version it works for, looks great :) I found the one for the 310xt and actually I think looks less "quick" (similar annoying locking wristband instead of the easy velcro that this version has)

I got the quick release kit several months ago, and have been using it with no problems until today. I found out that even if the GPS is securely attached to the mounting bracket, it can come loose on rough roads. I hit a bump on my ride today, and my $200 GPS went sailing. I checked before I left to ensure that the unit was securely fastened in the bracket, and it was. Luckily I found my GPS and it survived, but others may not be so lucky. That's a lot of money to trust to a bracket that's not 100% secure. Keep on the bike paths or smooth roads, and you may be alright, but I no longer trust my kit and have removed it from my bike.

Reviews

My husband bought this watch for running. It is full of great features and he loves it but the functionality is another story. I think the price is a little steep for a weekend watch. I disagree with the advert that this watch is sleek enough for everyday wear; it really cannot be considered a dress watch. This watch excels at heart monitoring, pace, calories burned, run time and distance. It even keeps track of your information by allowing you to wirelessly connect to your pc when within range. We had some issues with this part but it is great when you get it to work properly since it allows you to track your progress and workouts are available for download. This watch also tracks your position using GPS and although it takes a while to lock your position, warming up before a run easily takes care of the time needed. Simply tap on the watch face to access the information needed. How cool is that? We looked at lower priced versions which have buttons instead but most of the same features Garmin Forerunner 305 GPS Receiver With Heart Rate Monitor. Bottom line, my husband has tried many different types of devices and loves this one despite some quirks. There are cheaper versions of this watch and I wish he had purchased one of them since he only uses it when he runs. When I questioned the purchase, he reminded me of all my shoes. He won that argument.

Being a long time polar user i have struggled a bit learning to use the Garmin. Now that i am starting to get the hang of it i like the overall benefits of being able to map your workouts and the automatic measurements for distance and altitude.

Background: I've been thinking about getting a GPS running watch for quite some time and finally got tired of estimating my speed/distance using a regular watch and Map-My-Run (MMR). I did some relatively brief online research and quickly focused down to the Garmin 305 and Garmin 405. All the reviews seemed to point to the Garmin 305 (users just raved about it), but when I visited a local sports store, I couldn't get over the size factor of the 305 and so I decided to get the 405. This was even after a friend of mine (a 305 user) said not to get the 405. Note: My greatest concern about purchasing the 405 was the "bezel". Many reviewers complained that it was difficult to use and that if it gets wet (i.e. from sweat), it is nearly impossible to activate. Setup: Out of the box, it took a little while (40 min) for me to learn about the majority functionality and tweak all the setting. This includes the time it took to figure out how to install the software and get it synced with the computer. It wasn't that difficult, but rather just needed to devote the time to doing it. My Experience: This all this said, so far, the Garmin 405 has exceeded my expectations and I am extremely happy with the purchase. My focus for getting the watch was to be able to monitor my speed, distance, and heart rate while running. The watch had delivered perfectly for this. I am also really enjoying the ability to quickly upload a workout to an online website (I prefer the online capabilities b/c I can access from both work and home). As for the bezel, while it is a bit cumbersome to use, I STRONGLY recommend that when you run, you set the AUTO SCROLL function to "ON". This way, you don't need to even touch the bezel during your run. As an example, I have two data screens that are enabled: 1) Field #1: Time, Lap Pace, Distance 2) Heart-Rate: Heart Rate (you can customize a bunch of fields and there are tons of different data that you can display) By putting the auto scroll on, the watch display simply alternates between the two screens which is perfect for me. For an added benefit, you can "lock" the bezel so you don't inadvertantly change the display. Other Thoughts: The watch has a lot of functionality that I have still figuring out / exploring. As an example, I created a run using MMR and have been able to export it to the watch. This is a pretty neat feature (as it actually gives you directions on how to follow the track you mapped out). There is also a "Virtual Parnter" feature (haven't yet used), but also seems interesting. In terms of battery, it's not bad (can used a few times before requiring a charge). Overall: Highly recommend it. Reasons why I didn't give it 5 stars was because complexity of setup...

I owned the product for about a year and half when (in normal use) one of the straps completely snapped off the body of the device. This was caused by a failure of the internal plastic hinges that hold the strap to the device--they completely snapped in two. When I reported this to Garmin, they sent me a replacement strap, but this was of course completely useless, because there were no longer any hinges to attach the new strap to the device. With the inability to re-attach the strap, the entire $300 device is now worthless. to me as a runner. Because Garmin offers only a one-year warranty, I am apparently our of luck. Beware.

My sport is trekking and nearby my city I've from rather small hills to over 20,000 feet high mountains. I wanted a device that could keep track of my trekking activities during weekends and also the training (running and biking) needed during the week to prepare for long mountain journeys. The outdoor GPS aren't designed for running or biking especially because they lack heart rate monitors. So I bought the Garmin 405 with high expectations. My doubts were not only the mixed reports I saw, but also if it would perform reasonably for the trekking activities. My experience has been: 1.Accuracy: The GPS is very accurate, both in the city and mountains when you see afterwards the tracks in Google Earth it shows perfectly the streets, routes were you have been. Also compared to other devices the coordinates and altitude have been within a reasonable margin (difference below 5 meters). Also I have tested the heart rate monitor accuracy comparing it with other devices and also with a simple watch and always had precise measures. 2.Bezel: Takes some time to getting use to it. You have to attempt different pressures, changing finger can help too. Also try with different sensitivity settings until you find the way through. However, is not easy to maneuver while running or biking, but also in my opinion not necessary. Most of what you need can be set previously. I put the scroll feature in slow and set the information I needed in the screens using 2 fields (so they are easier to read). In training 1 I set actual time and timer time, training 2 I put distance and elevation, in HR I set heart and average lap heart rate and in training 3 I set it off, but there are multiple fields still to choose from. Also I set the watch with autolap every 500 meters. While actually doing my sport activity I manage the bezel locked to prevent unwanted view switching, and can watch all my relevant data while it scrolls. I highly recommend taking time at home in the setup stage of the device to avoid maneuvers during the activity. 3.Battery life: This has been an issue for me. The Garmin has performed exactly as it was advertised, about one week if used as a common watch (energy saving); 8 hours with GPS and heart monitor on. While this is O.K. for most biking and running activities as long as you remember to charge it completely after the activities is not enough for trekking activities, since many mountain journeys can be up to 10 or 12 hours. Could be better, but you get what is advertised. 4.Size: Great, is a big watch men can wear all the time. For women the same is not quite true. 5.Connection: I needed some patience, it took a few attempts until I had the devices paired and working and not any trouble after that. 6.Software: The Training Center works has the basic features to view your results, set workout and route. If you want a detailed comparison of the performance and hopefully your progress in you training I have found that exporting the track from Training Center as a .TCX file and then read it from excel. It brings all the necessary fields and then you have all the excel tools to analyze the files, draw your own, compute correlation ratios between variables, etcetera. Ease of use is matter of finding the way though, features you either have them or not, I think the garmin 405 has the right features for all my sport activities.

Reviews

I feel like I just got ripped off with this product. It would be great if topo 24K worked, but with no manual and email support that doesn't seem to go anywhere I have nothing. I've been holding on the 800 # support line for almost a hour and starting to feel ripped off. This is just too expensive of a product to have no documentation. 1st It doesn't want to install on any other drive then C: So have a lot of space available just to install it. 3 gigs+ 2nd Once I enlarged the boot drive so that the software would load I tried to use it. Again, with no manual and NO help there's little one can do with it unless your into a treasure hunt. I think I got some maps on the Oregon 450T, but I'm not really sure. To delete the files the program says 'find the file you want to delete then delete it'. What file, whats the name of it? Where is it located? Oh I guess one just deletes files randomly until the correct one goes away, which ever that file is???

Auto routing yes. Universal single use mapping trails great, except Garmin chose brown elevation lines and brown city roads. In parts of San Francisco distinguishing streets from a high fill of elevation lines is not that feasible. As far as preparing to write to a Micro SD card a "Core 2 Duo 6300" took 6 hours to prepare a single 8 min write. "Quad Core 9550" more than 4 hours. More than twice the estimated displayed. Also firmware update for Etrex and 60CSX allowing a 4 gig card, not quite enough capacity for CA NA OR WA 24K. I made a special card part City Navigator NT part Topo 24k. City Navigator NT disables elevation lines when active. California is two map files on NT (from map, hit menu, select setup map, check or uncheck NT map for your city needs). Topo 24K is a separate map file for a zillion USGS Quad maps. By the way, even the older City Navigator maps cover some roads in Death Vally that require experienced 4WD operators (Stripped Butte Valley Rd).

I bought a GPSMAP 60Csx and the western US topo 24K maps to use for hikes in and around northern California. I specifically bought the 24K map version because it has routable trails. The problem is that the map is missing a LOT of trails. For example, in Mt Tam, Steep Ravine is not included. Around Santa Cruz, all of the trails that make up the Skyline to the Sea trail are missing. These are major, heavily used trails and having incomplete trail information really limits the functionality of the maps and the GPS unit for hikers. I have heard that the 100K version includes all of these trails (albeit with less contour information). I'm really pissed at Garmin and will probably be returning these maps.

HOW TO USE GARMIN BASECAMP WITH GPS TOPO MAPS (SOME BASICS); A REVIEW OF GARMIN TOPO U.S. 24K WEST & OTHER GARMIN BASECAMP MAPS 2/26/10 FIRST SOME PROS & CONS ABOUT BASECAMP: PROS: This is a really cool program. You can find any area on the map, blow it up to whatever size you want, print out a paper copy with UTMs and/or transfer the map to a Garmin (at least) mapping GPS, which shows you exactly where you are on the map, etc. It works great in general and is easy to use ONCE YOU FIGURE OUT HOW TO USE IT. Excellent tech support is available via email (through [...]) or phone. It apparently works well on Mac (OSx 10.4 or later) as well as PC (I have it on Vista). CONS: NO INSTRUCTIONS EXIST (as of Feb. 2010)! It has many, but not all, of the trails that are on USGS or Trails Illustrated topo maps (although you can compensate for this by adding "tracks," perhaps with assistance from a topo map that shows where the trails are). Apparently route lines have to at least partially be on a trail or road; they won't necessarily go exactly how you want them to. YOU CAN SKIP THE REST OF THIS REPORT UNLESS YOU ARE ACTUALLY ORDERING, OR RECENTLY ORDERED, YOUR FIRST GARMIN TOPO MAP THAT USES BASECAMP SOFTWARE. IN SUCH A CASE, WHAT FOLLOWS SHOULD BE VERY USEFUL. IT CAN SAVE YOU HOURS OF FRUSTRATION AND MAKE BASECAMP USEABLE FOR YOU. IT CAN ALLOW YOU TO BE MORE CONFIDENT IN MAKING A GARMIN BASECAMP MAP AN AMAZON PURCHASE. INTRODUCTION In December 2009, after researching mapping GPSs and studying reviews on Amazon for mapping software for a Garmin GPS, I ordered a Garmin etrex Vista HCx mapping GPS, the Garmin TOPO U.S. 24K West DVD, a topo map CD of Utah from Above the Timber ([...]; works with Garmin's MapSource software) and blank microSD Cards. To my dismay, as of this time (Feb. 2010), Garmin maps that rely on BaseCamp software do not come with instructions. Nor are such instructions on the Garmin website yet. (Garmin's website does have a user's manual for their older software, MapSource, which I eventually and inadvertently discovered could be used with BaseCamp maps.) I was also unable to find instructions for BaseCamp from a brief Google web search. I ordered two books from Amazon that discussed GPSs and mapping (the newest with a 2008 copyright) in hopes they would talk about BaseCamp, but BaseCamp (c2009) was too new to be in them. Never having used mapping software before, I felt at a disadvantage without ANY directions. (This is one reason for my giving this software a four instead of a five star rating.) In my opinion, Gamin was irresponsible in not providing purchasers of its new mapping software with at least a set of basic BaseCamp instructions until a more thorough user's manual could be created. While I have a high regard for Garmin quality, this experience diminishes my faith in the Garmin name. Garmin's website does allow you to email tech support and ask questions, which I did, and my experience with their tech support has been extremely positive. I also spent many hours experimenting with my Garmin DVD map and GPS in order to figure a lot of things out on my own. To make it easier for other purchasers of this software, I have written the basic instructions for BaseCamp that follow. (I have also added some instructions for Garmin's MapSource program that are not in that program's user's guide.) Others could write something better and more complete but this is the best I can offer. As I learn more, I might make revisions. I am not aware of any other instructions for BaseCamp at this time (Feb. 2010). Thanks to Garmin Tech Support for providing some of the following information. USING GARMIN'S BASECAMP DVD MAP Opening the program on your computer: After the program was loaded into my PC (which has Vista) I was able to access it by going from the lower left Start button to Programs to Garmin to then being able to select BaseCamp (with the other option available being MapInstall). When the program opens and map appears, to find the geographic area of interest: move the marker for the "+" and "-" scale on the left up or down to select the size of the map you want to see (zooming in or out), while using the "compass" on the left (using your cursor to work with the middle section that has a pointer for each direction), and/or using the cursor's "hand image" on either of the two map images that appear, to move the map up or down, to right or left. If you use the mouse/cursor to "left click" on the "N", "E", "S", or "W", or click/hold/drag on the outer ring of the compass, it will reorient the map, if that is desired for viewing or printing. If you have entered a waypoint on the map and that waypoint is not visible on the area of the map that you are viewing, but it is listed on the left end, you can click on the symbol or name on the left and that area of the map will appear. After you have played with these things for awhile, you will find it easy to locate the map area of interest, and you will get an idea of how really cool this map program is. About creating waypoints: You can create and save waypoints with your GPS and then transfer them to the map on your computer. You can also create waypoints directly on your BaseCamp map on the computer, in the following manner: Once you find an area on the map where you want to create a waypoint or waypoints, you can click on "File" and go from "New" to "Waypoint." (Or where you see an image in the tool bar at the top, of either a waypoint, route, or track, you can use the mouse/cursor to activate the waypoint feature [or the route or track feature]. If the image shown is for a waypoint [a flag], click on it. If the image shown is for route or track, then click on the inverted triangle to the right of the word "New" to select waypoint.) With the waypoint feature activated, when you left click on a spot on the map, a waypoint will be created there and a symbol and number for it will appear on the left end of the screen. You can give the waypoint a name by right clicking (with PC) on the waypoint's number and selecting "rename". After creating the first waypoint you can continue to create more in the same manner. As long as you do not take the step to delete a waypoint, it seems to be automatically saved when you close the program, since it appears on the map when the program is started up again. To delete a waypoint, using the mouse, right click (with PC) on the waypoint name or number on the left end of the display screen and select "delete". If you right click (with PC) on a waypoint's name or number on the left end of the screen, the "properties" field appears, which (among other things) gives you the possibility of changing the waypoint's symbol to a different one by clicking on the inverted triangle to the right of the flag icon that is next to the word "symbol". You can turn off the waypoint mode by clicking on another toolbar symbol, like the "hand" for moving the map around. When you make waypoints on the computer map and transfer them to the GPS, they do not affect the allotted number of waypoints your GPS gives you, which only relates to waypoints you create with the GPS. Sending waypoints to the GPS: The MapInstall program will only send maps to the GPS, so other data (waypoints, etc.) is transferred through the BaseCamp program. With BaseCamp open, and the map with your selected waypoints on the screen, connect the GPS to the computer and turn the GPS on. On the left end of the screen, between "Library" and the list of your routes, should appear a "Devices" field with the name of, and an icon for, your GPS. Click/hold on a waypoint icon/name and drag it up to the GPS icon and "drop" it in. You will briefly see a little status bar showing the degree of transfer until it is complete. You can have a microSD with a map of any area in the GPS, or not have a microSD in the GPS at all, when you do this. About creating routes: You can create and save routes with your GPS and then transfer them to the map on your computer. You can also create routes directly on your BaseCamp map on the computer, in the following manner: First activate the route feature in the same way as described for waypoints. This allows you to draw routes between various points, with the cursor appearing as a pencil. Whenever you left click on the map screen it creates a "flagged" point which is one connection in the route. The lines you draw, however, appear as straight lines while you are drawing between each pair of points. It took me quite awhile to figure out how to end the process of route drawing without moving the pencil/cursor off the map page and actually closing the program. When you right click on the mouse (on PC) the process of making a route ends until you left click on a point on the map at which time the process resumes. One weird thing relates to when you are not creating a route on an actual trail or road. With some exceptions perhaps, as you create the second point the line is connected to, the straight line re-forms to go up or down to the nearest trail or road before going back up to the second point. You really just wanted a route going across country, but you end up with a route that takes you all over the place in order to utilize a trail or road. In other words, the route feature only seems to consistently work well or accurately when you are doing a route that follows a trail or road that is shown on the map. Perhaps there are some tricks to this part of the program of which I am not aware. Created routes are listed on the left side of the screen and you can right click (on a PC) on any of them and select "delete" to delete the route itself, or select "rename" to rename the route. About sending routes to the GPS: Use the same procedure described for waypoints. About creating tracks: A mapping GPS can automatically create "tracks" as you are hiking. A track appears on the GPS as a little dotted trail that shows exactly where you walked while the GPS was on. Tracks can be saved or deleted on the GPS. If they have not been deleted, they can be transferred from the GPS onto a map on the computer. You can also create tracks directly on the computer map in the following manner: In BaseCamp you activate the track feature in the same way as described for waypoints. This allows you to draw your own trail (or route) on the map that is more accurate and fluid than were you to use the route feature. The most fluid way to draw the track (on PC) is by holding the left click for the mouse as you drag it over the map to create the trail. You can also left click on separate points and a straight line (or lines) will appear to create the track between those points. You can leave track mode by right clicking the mouse. You can delete a track by right clicking on its symbol/name on the left of the screen and selecting "delete" (or select "rename" to rename the track). About sending tracks to the GPS: Use the same procedure described for waypoints. About the search feature (the image of binoculars in the toolbar along with the "Find," "near," and "containing" fields): You have to play around with the search feature to figure out how it works. It does not always work for me. I think there are some tricks to it I have not yet learned. If you initiate a search and what you want is accurately listed on the right side of the screen (perhaps along with other options), you can click on the location's name/address to reveal where it is located on the map, and then you can click on "show on map" to have the location shown in more detail. If you wish, you can also click on "add waypoint" to mark that spot on the map. (If you can not find what you want in this way, at least many locations can be found with a little patience by moving the map around and increasing or decreasing its coverage area.) About creating and using folders: With BaseCamp open and a map on the computer screen, to the left is a "Library" section with a "My Collection" folder. The folder will contain ALL of the waypoints, routes and tracks that you add to the map. You can create other folders, each of which will contain only the features you add to the map while the particular folder is open (with all of the features also being added to the "My Collection" folder). To create a new folder, click on File and go from New to Folder In Library. With a PC you can name the folder by right clicking on it with the mouse. Whenever you open one of the folders (by left clicking on it), its data is displayed on the map and at that point, if you wish, that specific data can then be transferred to your GPS. With BaseCamp open, you can delete or rename a library folder (except for "My Collection") by using your mouse's right click feature (on a PC). About transferring selected map areas from the computer to a microSD (which is connected directly to the computer with an adaptor): If you try to save map data onto the same microSD on more than one occasion, after saving the first map data, each successive "map save" erases whatever data had previously been saved on the microSD. It is easy to intentionally erase the contents of a microSD. Connect it to the computer's USB port and open the microSD. Right click [PC] on the Garmin folder icon/name and select delete. About printing out a paper map: (You can get water & tear resistant paper for printing maps at places like REI or through amazon.com or another website.) Once you have selected the approximate area you want to print out, drag down from "File" to "Print Preview" to see how the map will look on paper. It probably won't show all of the area that was on the screen, so you may need to move the map area around a little to print what you want. If you wish, you can move the map from the print preview screen with the cursor (with PC, hold down left click and move mouse), although it tends to respond slowly. Once the Print Preview shows you what you want, you can print it out while still in the Print Preview mode. As other Amazon reviewers have pointed out, the map does not have all the hiking trails that exist on the land or on USGS maps. However, you can add a trail to the map using waypoints and route lines or tracks, while perhaps working with a printed commercial topo map that shows you the trail you want to add. Thus you can make up for the map's insufficiency regarding trails. When you have made changes to a BaseCamp map and close the program, the changes seem to be saved on the program automatically (whereas MapSource gives you the option of using "save" to save the file to the MapSource program). USING GARMIN MAPINSTALL Were it not for a friendly clerk at REI (Recreational Equipment Inc.), I would have had no idea how to get the Garmin DVD map onto my microSD and then into my GPS. The key is that you open MapInstall while BaseCamp is closed. (First add any desired waypoints, routes, or tracks, to the map of interest, with the Garmin DVD map/BaseCamp program. Then close BaseCamp.) Using an adaptor (which can be purchased through Amazon or another source), put a microSD in a USB port for your PC or Mac (or have the microSD in the GPS and connect the GPS to the computer's USB port). Open MapInstall (on my PC: "Start" > "Programs" > "Garmin" > "MapInstall") Follow the instructions from there - the process is very obvious and you are guided step-by-step, but here are a few pointers: Zoom in and out of the map until you find the area you want to transfer. Clicking on a map section on the screen selects it for transfer; if more than one section is on the screen, click on each one you want to transfer. Clicking on a map section a second time unselects it. With a little practice this process will be obvious and easy to do. MORE ABOUT TRANSFERRING DATA OTHER THAN MAPS FROM THE COMPUTER (WITH BASECAMP AND MAPSOURCE) You can transfer one or more map regions from the computer to a microSD that is connected directly to your computer. You can also transfer map regions from the computer to a microSD while it is loaded into the GPS and the GPS is connected to the computer. What neither my "eTrex HC series" manual nor the MapSource User's Manual tell you (!!!) is that waypoints, routes, and/or tracks that you create on the computer map can NOT be transferred to the microSD. They have to be transferred to the GPS itself. So if you hook the GPS up to the computer, and have a microSD card in the GPS, when you instruct the computer to transfer maps as well as waypoints, routes, and/or tracks, the map is saved on the microSD and the data besides the map is saved on the GPS. (Garmin Tech Support told me this, after I wasted a lot of time trying to transfer waypoints as well as my map selection onto microSDs connected directly to the computer.) If you have a map or map set on the microSD and the microSD is in the GPS, you can still transfer waypoints, etc., to the GPS from the computer without harming the contents of the microSD (as long as you are not ALSO transferring a map or map section[s], which would replace whatever map or map section[s] are already on the microSD). (When interfacing between the computer and the GPS, be sure the GPS is turned on and that the computer program recognizes the GPS. [For MapSource, see MapSource User's Manual, vJune 2008, p.7.]) If you have waypoints (or routes/tracks) displayed on a map on the computer and transfer them all to the GPS, then add more waypoints (or etc.) to the same computer map file, that you want on the GPS, you can again transfer all of the displayed waypoints to the GPS. At that point, only the new ones will be added to the GPS (at least in the case of my Garmin HCx), since the other waypoints are already on the devise. (BaseCamp, of course, gives you the option of selecting individual waypoints/etc. to send to the GPS. Unlike with MapSource, you don't have to send all of the ones that have been created for a particular map file.) If - on the computer map - you change the properties of a waypoint that is already on the GPS (changing, for example, its name), and you again send that waypoint to the GPS, the renamed waypoint will transfer but the original version will still remain on the GPS (until you delete it) since the GPS perceives it as different from the changed version. TRANSFERRING MAPS (from the GPS/microSD) AND OTHER DATA (from the GPS) TO THE MAP PROGRAM ON THE COMPUTER Transferring maps from the microSD onto MapSource (from Garmin Tech Support): "You can transfer maps from the data card back into MapSource by checking the `Maps' box when you connect the GPS [with the microSD in it] to the computer and select `Receive from Device.' This will send the maps to MapSource and allow you to view which map segments are on the card. There is no way to do this in BaseCamp. And this can not be done with pre-loaded datacards." For information on transferring waypoints, routes, and/or tracks, as well as more information on transferring maps, to the computer, when using MapSource, see the MapSource User's Manual, vJune 2008, p.15. With BaseCamp is open, and you connect your GPS to the computer, waypoints, tracks and routes that are on the GPS automatically show up in the BaseCamp library. From there you can transfer them to a folder that you create, which will keep them in BaseCamp after the GPS is disconnected from the computer. SAVING MAP FILES ON THE COMPUTER; BACKING UP; ETC. MapSource map files that you create with waypoints, etc., can be saved outside of the program (like in a folder on the desktop), using the program's File > Save As. (Then, if you wish, you can delete the modified map or change its name at the location of its name on the computer [using the mouse's right click feature for PC].) With BaseCamp you can do this by selecting File > Backup. Later, the first time you open BaseCamp by clicking on the name for the file that you saved on the computer, a dialogue box comes up (on a PC) with the message, "Windows Cannot Open This File." At this point, chose "Select a program from a list of installed programs" (click on "OK"), and then select BaseCamp to open the program. It will open up with the "My Collections" folder open showing all your waypoints on the program. Subsequently, when you open the program by clicking on the file name on the computer, the program will open automatically. Be sure to back up important map files that would be hard to replicate. If you think a map file that was on your program has been accidentally deleted, do a "search" on the computer to see if you can find it there somewhere. SOME INFORMATION ABOUT DELETING BASECAMP FILES Let's say you create a new folder on BaseCamp, then save it on the computer as a backup file, and then at some point later delete the folder on the BaseCamp program and close the program. If you then reopen BaseCamp by clicking on the backup file's name, when BaseCamp opens, the folder will NOT show up on the program. If you create a new folder on BaseCamp, then save it on the computer as a backup file, and then at some point later delete the backup file, the original folder will still be found on BaseCamp (at least that has been the case in my limited experience). (Some aspects related to intentionally or accidentally deleting map files from the BaseCamp program are still a mystery to me.) SOME INFORMATION ABOUT RENAMING AND DELETING MAPSOURCE FILES When you change the name of a MapSource map file where you had saved it on the computer, the new name doesn't show up on the MapSource program until MapSource is opened by clicking on the new file name on the computer (as opposed to opening the program with Start > Programs> Garmin> MapSource [with PC]). When you delete a map file on the computer (where it had been saved) and then open MapSource via Start > Programs etc. [with PC], the name of the file still appears on MapSource (when you click on "File"), but when you click on the name in the "File" menu to select it, a message appears saying it can't be found, and the name then disappears from the "File" menu when you close that dialogue box by selecting "OK". (There are aspects related to how file names show up or don't show up on MapSource that that are not discussed in the program's user's manual and that I don't understand. The manual does not do justice to the areas related to renaming, deleting, and saving MapSource files.) GPS (Garmin etrex Vista HCx) AND MAP USE With a map on a MicroSD that is loaded into the GPS (with "Map Data" selected in the GPS' map menu): When you turn on the GPS it shows the portion of the map related to your location as well as a location marker (assuming you are located within the area of the map on the microSD). (If you are not located within the map on the microSD, and the GPS comes with a preloaded basemap that covers your location, the location marker will show where you are on the basemap.) (Note: some mapping GPSs will allow you to load a map directly into the GPS without needing a microSD.) You can use the upper 2 buttons on the left side of the GPS (Garmin HCx at least) to zoom in or out and when the GPS is turned off and back on, it comes back on displaying the last map size you previously selected. As you walk, with the GPS on, the locator indicating where you are on the map changes accordingly. I have been told that if you load a large map area into your GPS, it will be a little slower to work with than if you had loaded in a smaller map area. Something that I wish my GPS manual had mentioned is that when using the zoom in/out feature, where you locate your pointer on the map on your screen, using the "rocker" (on a Garmin HCx at least), determines the area that will be focused on for zooming. (I am referring here to a pointer that you can move around, not to what I call the location marker that shows where you are located on the map.) For example, if you located the pointer in the lower right corner of the map that is being displayed, then zoom in or out, that lower right corner is what will be centered and focused on. (It took me awhile to learn this. When I zoomed in and out with a map on my GPS screen it was confusing to see the map areas shift around so much. It made it almost impossible to focus on a specific area. Finally I realized this related to where I had the pointer.) To find a map on the microSD that is loaded into the GPS that covers an area within which you are not located: For example, if you have a topo map of SE Utah in the GPS that you want to look at, and you are in California......when you turn on the GPS and the map page appears, it will show where you are in California (if your location is on the GPS pre-loaded basemap). With the Utah map properly selected in your map menu options, you can zoom out more and more until you can see an outline of the states. Then you can use the rocker to move over to Utah. From there use the pointer/rocker and the zoom feature to find the map area you for which you are looking. Two other ways to do this that were suggested by Garmen Tech Support: (1) You can "turn off satellites and relocate the GPS position to an area within the detailed map segment. To do this, go to the Satellite Page > Menu Button > Use with GPS Off > Menu Button (again) > New Location > Use Map > Use the click-stick (rocker) to pan to the area where you know there is detailed map coverage > Press Enter (the click-stick). Now the device believes you are in this area and you can zoom in and out to see the detail." (2) An easy way to find a distant map area in the future is to place a waypoint there in the GPS, then you can locate the waypoint in the "Find" menu, bring up the data on the waypoint, and select "view on map" [or, with my GPS, just "map"] to show that map area on the screen. MAPSOURCE VS BASECAMP; MAPSOURCE INSTEAD OF BASECAMP Since beginning to study BaseCamp I have downloaded MapSource for use with a map CD that covers Utah, and explored MapSource some. MapSource is more user-friendly and it is easier to figure out how to use most of its aspects without a manual than is the case for BaseCamp. Unlike MapSource, BaseCamp prints out maps with UTMs, which is really nice. On the computer screen (and printed map), BaseCamp shows you a small map in the corner of the screen or page which gives you an idea of where the map area you have selected is at is in relation to a larger area. A printed BaseCamp map also shows you true north and gives you the geographic area's declination. I am sure BaseCamp has other advantages as well. (Unlike BaseCamp, MapSource comes with a user's manual, although I still had to figure out some things it does not discuss.) Both programs print out maps that have a distance scale. One neat thing I discovered about a Garmin BaseCamp DVD map is that if you have a current version of MapSource (which can be downloaded from [...]), you can work with the map with either MapSource or BaseCamp. (In the toolbar section of the MapSource screen, in the upper left corner, to the left of the "+"and "-" zoom features, is a little field for selecting maps that have been loaded onto the computer.) If you want to use the simplicity (and user's manual!) of MapSource, it is nice to have the option to do so.

As good as Garmin is in making a trail worthy GPS; they are just as lacking in making good mapping software. The Garmin basecamp software is fine for viewing on a screen. If you want to download a map then the limitations appear. There is no annotating the map. If you place grid lines on the map they can only be in lat-long. There is no provision to place a UTM grid on the printed map. (As an aside, there is no way to display a grid when the map is displayed on the computer screen.) You get one choice in printing... Garmin's vision of how you want the map and profile to be displayed. (Another aside, there is no statistics for the elevation profile shown on the computer screen or in print. Such as accumulated elevation or gradient.) If you want good mapping software then I suggest getting the Delorme topo software. (Of course you can only download Garmin maps to Garmin GPS units.) Delorme's is a more professional grade of software with a layering concept similar to photoshop's editor. If you want a great GPS, then buy a Garmin.

Reviews

I purchased this GPS because the GPSmap 60Csx was very expensive and the only difference is that the Csx has a barometer and a Altimeter and does instruments I have them on a Casio Pathfinder I carry with me. The 60Cx is an outstanding GPS; it records tracks, is very accurate, always locks at least 8 satellites even indoors, alkaline batteries last 30 hours +, comes with mapsource software, usb cable and with carrying accessories. I find it really easy to use; the color TFT screen makes it very easy to see even at night and with the sun glare. After using my GPS adding new waypoints, tracks, routes, I sync it with my laptop and all my information is available true the mapsource software that I can modify and include to my map, it comes with an "ok" basemap but a lot of maps are available true garmins website. I was very pessimist of buying this item REFURBISHED but for a 100+ dollars save I went for it, item is in awesome conditions and very precise. BUY THIS GPS you will not regret it.

This device found satellites and pinpointed its location on the map in less than a minute out of the box -- from inside the house, where my previous GPS (a Magellan Explorist) hadn't even been able to get any reception. Battery life has been much better than earlier units I've owned. Usability outside the US is an important feature for me. When we went to Europe, we were able to buy a detailed map of Scandinavia on a micro card so that we could just bike around Copenhagen without worrying about getting lost.

Overall happy with unit. Rugged, water tight. Easy to use. Don't expect any maps. Everything has to be purchased separately. Lakes is a map and their lake maps don't put your location on the right road, so you have to purchase road maps. Their lake maps are not very accurate with anything other than the borders of the lake, but you can get to where you're going and back on the same track and you can mark spots. Lists marinas and ramps in wrong locations. Not all depth info is correct.

I purchased this as an upgrade / replacement for a 5 year old Garmin 60C. My old 60C was a steadfast companion on myriad canoe camping trips and had helped me out of dicey situations many times. This newer model is strikingly similar except for some small but significant changes. ~the receiver is far faster to lock onto sattelites and fix position ~the receiver has much greater sensitivity- this one actually can lock on and follow me in my house! ~battery life is slightly improved ~syncing to a PC seems easier and more solid At Amazon's price I paid $110- less than I did 5 years ago, and that was at a good discount.

transaction went very smoothly and the seller was great at resolving a problem with the item

Reviews

Excellent, a must for Travel in Italy. I used it extensively from Sarento To Austria.

We just got back from a two week vacation in Italy. We rented a car and ultimately drove about 1400 miles between Rome, Pompeii, Abruzzo/Sulmona, Florence, Siena, San Gimignano, Padova, Venice, and Milan. I could never have done this trip without the GPS. CONS: only a few. When we first got to Rome the GPS (Nuvi 265WT) didn't initially pick up any satellites, especially indoors. After about 2 days and while walking outdoors it started to pick up satellites and from there it worked fine. Also, it directed me to a parking garage in Siena which ultimately led me down a one-way street going the wrong way. This created a little traffic issue and some temporary stress but ultimately we re-directed to the same garage. Lastly, our hotel near Venice was located on a pedestrian-only piazza so the GPS literally led me to where I really wasn't supposed to be, though next to the hotel where an attendant led us to a parking place. PROS: For me the GPS saved our trip. I could never have driven to the places we went relying only on maps. My wife and I would have killed each other. I couldn't read most of the signs and many of the local Italians didn't speak English thus couldn't give us directions. The GPS maps were very detailed and accurate and literally led me from point-to-point. It was easy to pre-load destinations (either by address or specific name) as well as parking locations. It was easy to convert the format from miles to kilometers. I even drove in Rome where the streets are small, random, and loaded with cars and scooters. I always zoomed in the GPS to provide the most detail and simply followed the purple line to my destinations. For $70 on Amazon (similar price on Ebay) this was a minimal expense which saved our trip and made the driving a fun part of the vacation. Unless you speak fluent Italian and enjoy getting lost in a foreign country, don't drive in Italy without this.

I'm not sure how this chip would work for driving, but I purchased it to help us navigate around Rome, Venice and Athens for our recent trip. It proved pretty much useless. It took way too long to recognize where it was, particularly when we changed locations, but even when it had just been off for a while in the same city. I ended up using my iPhone and Google Maps, which worked much better, although that service also leaves something to be desired as far as orienting you to where you are. Anyway, we had a great trip, mostly by asking for directions at our hotels and occasionally on the streets. Since I don't regularly travel to Europe, purchasing the chip to help us get around was pretty much a waste of $80.

The Garmin Italy map made driving in Tuscany easy. It is much better than the Michelin map which we also had with us. Michelin doesn't have all the small roads marked that we used as we drove throughout Tuscany. Having the Garmin was so reassuring because we knew right away if we made a wrong turn - recalculating! We found the small hill towns to be tricky, with many little winding roads coming into one intersection. The Garmin was essential here and always got us where we wanted to go. We used it many times to locate specific hotels and restaurants too. I was very impressed with this product and highly recommend it for anyone planning a trip.

My wife and I traveled to Italy and spent time in a small town in Tuscany. We flew into Rome and flew out of Florence. We rented a car in Rome and returned the car in Florence. These maps were invaluable in driving around Italy. They worked in my Garmin nuvi as advertised. I am sure I would still be lost in Rome today if I did not have the maps.